THE LOCATION

The Counter Tunbridge Wells exterior Robin Read and Greta Boccia outside — Photography credit: Stuart Mack

After a very successful residency and many pop up and private dining events, The Counter opened as a permanent restaurant this May (2024) in the heart of Tunbridge Wells.

Chef, Robin Read, together with his wife, Greta Boccia, have taken on a three-storey, 200-year-old Georgian house in Calverley Road. If you’ve already been – well done for being one of the first in the know. And if you’re yet to discover it, then you’re in for a treat!

THE LOWDOWN

The Counter is the fruition of the long-held dream of talented chef, Robin Read, to have his own restaurant. Born from a long family history of serving the best produce over a counter, Robin’s maternal grandfather was a Master Butcher in Rugeley, Staffordshire, while on his paternal side, his great-grandfather was a Greengrocer in Lewisham, South London.

Hence the appreciation of serving customers over a ‘counter’ and the vision to incorporate this concept into a restaurant setting (see below).

Robin Read at The Counter, Tunbridge Wells, Kent

Prior to opening his own restaurant, Robin was Executive Chef of the Firmdale Hotel Group for 16 years, overseeing six new Firmdale openings, including four hotels, a bakery and training academy, all with great success. He worked with head chefs in eight sites (UK & internationally) with over 200 kitchen staff, to maintain the highest of standards.

Robin began his cooking career at the age of 16 and his CV includes working with culinary legends the Roux Brothers’ at the London patisserie, with Chez Nico under Nico Ladenis as sous chef, which held three Michelin stars, before working with Marco Pierre White at Mirabelle, becoming Head Chef, and retaining their one Michelin star. Need we say more?

THE VIBE

The venue consists of the main restaurant with table and counter dining. There’s also a private dining room, small wine bar and courtyard garden, with raised beds and pots growing herbs, salads, and veg.

The Counter Tunbridge Wells interior restaurant

The restaurant is small and perfectly formed, with a laid-back and intimate vibe. While the food might be fine dining – the mixed, jovial crowd, art on the walls and music – gives it a cool café ambiance, as opposed to stuffy restaurant feel. No need for any concern that you might be intimidated by fanatical foodies here. Staff are friendly and relaxed, Greta, Robin’s wife is warm and welcoming.

The Counter Tunbridge Wells table for two

The full experience, ten-course menu is offered at the counter and gives diners an interactive food adventure, watching Robin and his team of chefs cook and plate up at the pass. The menu is more experimental, taste-testing dishes that are in development for the next month’s menus.

SCOFF AND QUAFF

The restaurant is open from lunchtime on Thurs, Fri & Sat and Wed evenings (check here for exact opening times). Every month sees the launch of a new seasonal menu – an excuse to return regularly, if ever you needed one.

Plus, Robin recently added a new three-course menu (costing £40) to its original choice of five-, eight- and ten-course tasting menus, (costing £60, £95, and £125 respectively).

The Counter Tunbridge Wells chef Robin Read serving at the counter

Robin has years of experience sourcing the best seasonal and local produce, predominantly from Kent and Sussex, but also within the British Isles. The new three-course menu is available for lunch on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, from midday to 2.30pm.

This shorter menu is crafted using the same locally sourced ingredients and service standards and is ideal for those who haven’t got as much time for the full dining experience.

The Counter Tunbridge Wells table and menu

Robin’s vision of a modern-day restaurant is that of a responsible and sustainable one with seasonal cooking, few food miles and using every part of an ingredient.

He seeks out and nurtures a strong network of small, independent farmers, growers, and producers from farm to sea and takes great care and pride to meet all his suppliers and visit their farm, forest, river, warehouse, or barn across the country.

Robin’s menus are clearly rooted in this passion for the produce and a love of classical cookery. Yet he doesn’t take himself too seriously as each dish is elevated by a playful nature and clear curiosity to try new techniques. It’s the perfect combination.

The Counter Tunbridge Wells Cured Chalk Stream trout tart

The end result is exceptional food presented in a creative way. Case in point our delicious Cured Chalk stream Trout tarts, (pictured above) that were a feast for the eyes as well as the tastebuds.

The Counter Tunbridge Wells malted sourdough with waste vegetable broth

Absolutely everything is made on site in the kitchen. Chef had us at Malted Sourdough. But better still it was served with Chiddingstone Dairy butter and their Waste vegetable broth – which is just as it says, a combination of any left over veg from the day before (pictured above). The broth was packed with flavour and tasted of a wholesome hug.

The Counter Tunbridge Wells Roast Birchden Asparagus

We followed this with Roast Birchden Asparagus velouté and oil (which needed to be moped up with some more of that divine sourdough of course) – a wonderful seasonal dish that was full of flavour (pictured above).

The Counter Tunbridge Wells Steamed Brill

Robin is happy to accommodate all tastes – I explained I was a pescatarian and so opted for the Steamed Brill in Lobster mousse (pictured above) for my next course.

The Counter Tunbridge Wells Aged Susex Sirlion of Beef

While Mr Muddy Kent enjoyed the Aged Sussex Sirloin of Beef (pictured above). Our plates were so clean they didn’t need to go through the dishwasher.

The Counter Tunbridge Wells Baron Bigod seeded crackers and date ketchup

What better way to follow all those lip-smackingly good dishes than the most flavoursome cheese in a cracker – Baron Bigod seeded crackers with date ketchup (pictured above) – each bite intensely rich and indulgent. I did repeat after each mouthful how ‘I couldn’t possibly finish it’ then somehow managed to eat the entire thing.

The Counter Tunbridge Wells chocolate cremeaux sorbet and bitter orange

And I haven’t even started on the pudding! Yes, we did find room for the Chocolate sorbet with bitter orange gel (pictured above). I mean, wouldn’t you? It’s definitely in my top five best puddings ever – and I’ve had a LOT of good puddings in my time.

The Counter Tunbridge Wells The Sweet Treat Tower

Then came the Sweet Treat Tower (below) served with a fun flourish – just to finish us off and ensure we needn’t eat for a week.

The Counter Tunbridge Wells Kent cocktails and mocktails

We started our lunchtime dining with two drinks from the non alcoholic cocktail and beer list – a Pentire & Tonic and a Blackberry Sour, both of which hit the spot.

Wine is paired with each dish in the Tasting Menu – and expertly done – which is part of the experience of course. Can highly recommend the Hoffman & Rathbone Classic Cuvee (from East Sussex) too.

OUT & ABOUT

So much to do locally. You’re in the centre of Tunbridge Wells here, so moments from the shops of Royal Victoria Place or the High Street. Or, if you’re really feeling you need to walk off that meal, there’s a longer stroll to the parks or The Pantiles. For culture lovers there’s Trinity Theatre or the Assembly Hall Theatre and galleries galore. Read more about this vibrant spa town here.

ANYTHING ELSE?

The Counter Tunbridge Wells private dining

The Counter is very much a ‘watch-this-space’ kind of place. It’s only been open for a couple of months and is already getting high praise – this enthusiasm has led Robin and Greta to explore other plans, which we’ll let you know about in due course.

Also worth noting is the private dining space just off from the restaurant, pictured above, which would make the perfect setting for a gathering of up to 10 people – tables can be moved together. Enjoy the kudos of booking somewhere a bit different that is still a little bit unknown for your special occasion.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

GOOD FOR? Perfect for gathering your foodie friends and family, or for dates and special occasions. Robin, Greta and their team have pulled off something special at The Counter. They’ve created a place where you can taste knowledge and passion in every dish, but in a totally unpretentious relaxed, low-key setting. It brings something unique to Tunbridge Wells too.

NOT FOR? It isn’t a place to bring kids – though friendly there’s no dedicated menu and frankly, though it’s laid-back here, it’s the grown-up sort. The public parking on the road outside is limited to one-hour, but you’re spoilt for choice with car-parks just a couple of minutes walk away (such as the Royal Victoria Place or the Crescent Road car parks).

THE DAMAGE

There’s a choice of three-, five-, eight- and ten- course tasting menus, costing £40, £60, £95, and £125 respectively. Three or five-glass wine pairing is £36 or £60 per guest, or a three-glass non-alcoholic pairing is £32.

The Counte r, 77 Calverley Rd, Tunbridge Wells TN1 2UY, Tel: 07828 968578

Review: The Counter, Tunbridge Wells

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