Review: The Winemakers’ Kitchen, Balfour Winery
Want the scoop on the new restaurant at the award-winning Balfour winery sitting on the picturesque Hush Heath Estate set in 400 acres of spectacular Kent countryside? Course you do – read on to discover more…
THE LOCATION
You’ll find Balfour near Staplehurst, in the heart of Kent (we counted at least 8 oast houses on our journey which proves that point) which itself sits, rather conveniently, on the trainline that connects the Kent coastline with London – it’s only 50 mins from London Bridge.
Whether you’re visiting from the Big Smoke or from anywhere near Marden, Paddock Wood, Tonbridge and Sevenoaks (to the north) or Headcorn, Ashford, Folkestone, Deal and Ramsgate (to the south) – transport will be easy-peasy. Especially as they have recently launched a free shuttle bus service so that you can sip award-winning wines, without needing to take a car.
The shuttle bus runs from Marden train station every weekend taking a circular route to and from the vineyards during opening hours and there’s no need to pre-book a slot so if you wake up with a sudden thirst to sip on award-winning wines, it’s all within easy reach.
And if you want to make a night of it, stay at one of their lovely Balfour pubs such as The Goudhurst Inn which has boutique bedrooms, just under 4 miles away, so an easy taxi ride home or an hour and half walk as the perfect way to work up that appetite?
THE LOWDOWN
We love these kinds of stories. Co-founders, husband and wife team Richard and Leslie Balfour-Lynn planted their first vineyards in 2002 in the grounds beyond their house on the beautiful Hush Heath Estate. Four years later, Balfour Brut Rosé 2004 became the first English wine to win a gold medal and the Trophy at the International Wine Challenge.
Fast-forward twenty-two years later and Balfour Winery is now one of England’s leading wine producers, pioneers for both English traditional method sparkling wines, and a new wave of English still wines. Making over 400,000 bottles of still and sparkling wines each year, Balfour is known for its’ world-class wine as much as its innovative spirit. Jake’s Kentish Cider and Jake’s Harvest IPA created by Richard and Leslie’s son, Jake and made on the Estate, is also causing a stir in the drinks industry.
And they didn’t just stop there as there are now ten Balfour pubs located throughout Central London, East Sussex, Kent and the Cotswolds so you will find that infamous hospitality associated with the Balfour name in various corners of the UK.
THE VIBE
It’s jaw-dropping scenery from the moment you arrive, and we are not just talking about the view. There’s a giant zebra statue ready to greet you at the front desk of which we are not entirely sure of the relevance, but we like it.
Richard and Leslie’s impressive artwork adorns the walls, console tables with interesting lamps and artefacts are dotted around and even though there is no doubt that you are in a winery thanks to the large internal windows overlooking the fermentation process in the factory below, there is an air of homeliness about the place.
We visited on the first sunny day in March with Spring giving a hint of what was to come and there was no better place to enjoy that sunlight than from the terrace overlooking the estate’s 160 hectares of vineyards, meadows, woodlands and orchards. There’s even a pond to complete the quintessential English scene.
You can only imagine how the place springs even further into life come Summer with outdoor tables for 250 people plus a bespoke Balfour bar in a converted post-box red horsebox to keep the punters happy.
SCOFF AND QUAFF
There’s a new double act in town as the menu is a collaboration between Head Chef, Dan Austin (who has been perfecting his trade across the South East and London) and Head Winemaker, Fergus Elias. The duo have worked closely together to produce a menu with dishes specifically designed to pair with Balfour’s wines. The wine very much remains the hero of each dish as Elias breaks down the different structural and flavour elements of each wine, and then challenges Austin to create recipes that would bring out those attributes.
With such local wines on your doorstep, it is no surprise that the seasonal produce is all sourced from local producers with the ethos being “what grows together, goes together”. They are not reinventing the wheel here and the foodie options do err on the safe side, but it is crowd-pleasing fayre, and you won’t leave disappointed especially with that view in front of you.
We kicked off proceedings with a chilled glass of Balfour Brut Rosé 2018 beautifully paired with the Brown Crab & Chilli Pate with citrus crème fraiche, watercress and dill crostini and the Twice-Baked Ashmore Cheddar Souffle with Estate apple & frisee salad paired with a crisp Balfour Blanc de Blancs 2018. With the sun on my face and these uber-fresh flavours on my plate, we were off to a good start.
Our mains included Slow-Braised Thigh of Chicken with seared baby onion and oyster mushroom sauce with balsamic fried onions, creamed potato, greens and carrots which was melt-in-the-mouth and recommended to be enjoyed with a glass of Saignée 2018, but the school run meant we had to irritatingly switch to the Sparkling Water. The fresh linguine with crab sourced straight off the boat from P.H. Fish in Hastings, was also a big hit.
Yes, Reader, we did insist on trying out the puddings for you.
The Balfour Cider Poached Pear and Frangipane Tart with a kirsch and cherry coulis and vanilla custard is not to be missed as well as the Glazed Local Rhubarb, Estate Honey and Ginger Cheesecake served in a deconstructed style and good examples of how they utilise all the ingredients within their reach.
OUT & ABOUT
Sissinghurst Castle is six miles away and is a must-see being one of the most famous gardens in England. English poet, novelist and (unofficial) garden designer Vita Sackville-West and her husband, the diplomat and diarist, Harold Nicolson, who were on the fringes of the Bloomsbury set, are the reason that the garden looks as splendid as it does today. They purchased Sissinghurst in 1930 and the garden opened to the public in the late 1930s before it later became a National Trust property in 1967.
Thanks to their vision, the outside space at Sissinghurst Castle flourished and evolved into the now world-renowned gardens which are laid out as a series of themed ‘outdoor rooms’. The most distinctive architectural feature of Sissinghurst is the 4-storey red-brick Elizabethan tower with capped octagonal turrets where Sackville-West kept her writing room and wrote her books.
ANYTHING ELSE?
Set aside time to browse the shop and pick up some local artisan products or deli bits for dinner later. And if you can’t do the whole hog on food in the restaurant, their create your own seasonal platters are a very popular choice to enjoy with the wines. We’re talking Kentish meat, cheese or vegetarian options made with seasonal produce, sourced from the best local producers like Curd & Cure, Moons Green Charcuterie and fruit and veg from David Catt & Sons to name but a few.
Keep an eye on their What’s On pages too for excuses to keep coming back. Jazz Nights with British songwriter, pianist and musician, Joe Stilgoe, have been very popular with guests enjoying a three-course meal (and wine pairings of course) whilst being entertained by Joe.
You can also choose a self-guided stroll through the vineyards, apple orchards and ancient oak woodlands, or join an expert-led tour and tasting experience in their winery if you want a more in-depth affair.
THE MUDDY VERDICT
GOOD FOR? Pretending you are on holiday when you are not. That view would not fail to wow most folk. We’d go back for a romantic dinner a deux (with a stopover at The Goudhurst Inn) or a fun-filled long leisurely lunch on the terrace with a group of friends.
NOT FOR? If you would like to stretch your tastebuds beyond Kent wines, you might find the wine list limiting. Plus, fussy kids might be peeved by the fact that that there is not a dedicated children’s menu.
THE DAMAGE
Starters are around the £10-mark, mains cost between £18 – £20 with £6 side dishes and desserts range from £7 to £14. Bottles of Balfour are priced from £55 to £65.
Open in Google Maps