Review: The Restaurant MS, Folkestone

Brand new winner alert! If you are after some old-school glamour coupled with gourmet food in your life – let us introduce you to The Restaurant MS who’s just scooped Best Restaurant in Kent as voted by you in the Muddy Awards 2024. See why it’s currently causing a stir in Folkestone. 

THE LOCATION

We all know that Folkestone is already firmly on the foodie map and The Restaurant MS is now taking the town’s reputation up a notch. You’ll find the restaurant in the more residential end of town from the tourist hot spots of Harbour Arm and the Old High Street which is packed full of indie shops so it’s worth a day trip or an overnighter if you can wangle it.

The sea is within spitting distance (not that you will be needing to do any of that with food of this calibre) so there is still plenty to explore on your doorstep including The Lower Leas Coastal Park or park up in Sandgate, just under two miles away, and earn your foodie points by walking there and back and rounding it off with a coffee or cocktail at one of Sandgate’s many independent eateries.  

THE LOWDOWN

The Restaurant MS is the brainchild of Mark Sargeant who was the former protégé of Gordon Ramsay and is Kent born and bred. Prior to The Restaurant MS, he was the figurehead of a Kentish culinary empire that included Rocksalt on Folkestone harbour as well as Wife of Bath in Wye and The Duke William in Ickham.

The celebrity chef has now made his return to the seaside town where he made his name and is Chef Patron at The Restaurant MS. And for those who think it’s just lip service from such a culinary star, think again. Mark is very hands-on and is at the helm in the kitchen daily conjuring up new dishes plus makes a point of coming out into the dining room to meet the punters and talking them through each course.

It’s a smart move as you can tell that many of the diners get a buzz out of meeting him and hearing first-hand the intricacies of each dish plus as a bit of a showman, you can tell Mark rather enjoys the theatre of it all.

THE VIBE

The decor has taken inspiration from the Roaring Twenties high style Art Deco scene with unique touches that bring a slice of London institutions, like Le Caprice, down to Folkestone. There’s a killer bar too which Mark is rightfully very proud of as it is stylishly decorated with bottle green scalloped tiles and just screams ‘good times’ as guests can linger there for pre or post dinner Martinis. Even the champagne served in coupe glasses bring that touch of old-school glamour from the start.   

Mark’s hands-on approach goes beyond the kitchen as he has co-ordinated the whole look and pulled in favours with friends and family to make it all happen. Mark’s mate, Brian Aris, just happens to be a very good photographer who has captured many well-known faces over the years so it’s their black and white portraits that are fixed on the faded pink setting-plaster walls and it’s his cousin who has made the oatmeal café curtains, carefully chosen to go with the bottle green panelling.

And when it comes to the ceiling lamps, retro Villeroy & Boch crockery and Crittall mirrors, it’s Mark that has personally sourced it all so you can tell that the whole process has been a passion project right through from the food through to the interiors.

The setting is wonderful reminder that going out for lunch or dinner is a real event and the best restaurants should always be chic, glamorous and make you feel special so if you are a bit tired of the laissez-fare stripped down approach to dining out that is in vogue, this is the one for you.

And if there was a category for the Best Loos in Kent in our Muddy awards, we know where our vote would go…

SCOFF AND QUAFF

Mark has gone back to his roots and passion for classic French cuisine, refined, modernised and cooked using the best local and seasonal produce. There’s inspiration from many of the great chefs and restaurants that Mark has admired along the way, and you will find credits scattered throughout the menu.

An homage to Pierre Koffman,  one of a handful of chefs in the United Kingdom to have been awarded the coveted three Michelin stars, is attributed in the Braised Pigs Trotter main course and Le Gavroche is quoted as the inspiration for the Tart au Citron with a Sorbet of Blood Orange so you are benefiting from the talents of other chefs as well as Mark’s own skills.

That more formal approach to dining is evident with use of the words Hors D’Oeuvres and Entrées in the menu and there is a refreshing omission of expensive side dishes to complement your meal.  You know that there will be enough flavours and ingredients on your plate without feeling you must order a plate of purple sprouting broccoli for £5.

As Mark says, “I love what other restaurants are doing now with lots of tiny plates, but I want to go back to my roots, embrace the noughties and bring back old-school dining with proper portions. In my opinion, hospitality is about being generous and with The Restaurant MS, it’s about making our guests feel that they are royalty from the first moment they step through our doors and are treated to a foodie show from start to finish.”

The maître d’, Matthew, is a real asset to the business as he is a fresh young face who can be quizzed about any dish and had the sway to convince us that pig trotters should not be missed. ‘Think of it as a gourmet take on bangers and mash’ he gently told us, and he was right. With the mousseline potato shaped in the most exquisite shell alongside the surprisingly smooth Pigs Trotters, it was all gleefully mopped by the rich Madeira sauce.

Mark is a consummate host and regardless of whether you are having the Prixe-Fixe menu or A La Carte, he will still treat you to the additional foodie flourishes such as the pre-dinner canapes, sorbet cleansers and petits fours. The Pre-Fixe menu at £35 per person (Wednesday to Saturday – lunch only) is an absolute steal so make sure you book your lunch spot before Mark wises up to this…

And of course, it is not just bread and butter at the start – it’s Docker Sourdough from a local Folkestone producer with tapenade butter, Smoked Cods Roe, and Wagyu Beef Dripping – the foodie show starts here.

You can also rely on Matthew to steer you on the stalwart dishes that have been well-loved by diners since opening such as the Lasagne of Seafood Sauce au Crustacés with a Fondue of Tomatoes, King prawns and Oscietra Caviar with a lobster foam. This is reminder that dining out is about having something you would never attempt at home.

Our other starter, Globe Artichoke filled with a rich paste of Chestnut Mushrooms alongside a Poached Woodland Farm Egg and surrounded by a smooth Beurre Blanc sauce was also a hit and we also exclaimed over the Confit of Turbot served with a Fondant of Leeks, Heritage Carrots Parisienne with a Roast Bone Dashi. Exquisite flavours and presentation all round.

The school run beckoned so we are still kicking ourselves that we could not linger on for the Petit Fours (homemade blackcurrant pate de fruits, macarons and lemon madeleines) but it’s yet another excuse to lure us back. We did manage to fight spoons over the Lemon Tart (sublime) and the Baba au Rhum with Caramelized Pineapple and Coconut Sorbet.

You should also know that children are welcome. You won’t find nuggets for them (phew) but fish and chips are, made using the freshest cod loin from local Folkestone Trawlers with gluten free self-raising flour and sparkling water, and all served on a silver platter. Talk about decadent for the little blighters.

When it comes to quaffing, you can dive into their wine list with a blend of very good French and European wines, whilst also showcasing the best of British with a dash of New World too. Guests can go and choose their own wines if they wish from the walk-in wine cellar and when it comes to beer, there is Mark’s favourite Guinness on tap, served in half pints. If there is an Armageddon coming, I know where I am heading.

OUT & ABOUT

Check out our Folkestone Insider Guide for more intel on where to stay and shop when you are in town. Mark’s a big fan of The Folkestone Wine Company in town and Lido Bon Vino in Sandgate so make it a foodie tour if you can especially with all the foodie stalls and trucks on Folkestone Harbour Arm too and their free cinema screenings over the Summer.

ANYTHING ELSE?

We are sold on the Chef’s Table experience where you can truly see the inner workings of the engine room that powers the restaurant and the ideal table for serious gastronomists. Did you know that Claridge’s was the very first restaurant in the country to have a Chef’s Table where Mark worked alongside Gordon, so he has always loved opening his kitchen for guests.

A six-course tasting menu for up to 6 guests costs £500 or an eight course tasting menu costs £700 – both options coming with a Magnum of Champagne as a nice little decadent start for what’s to come and with Mark at the helm, you can tell there is plenty of fun and mischief too along the way.

THE MUDDY VERDICT  

GOOD FOR? Those nostalgic folk who have had enough of tiny sharing plates. This is also date night territory starting with cocktails in the bar, but equally works for girls’ lunch (hello Pre-Fixe menu) and gourmets need to indulge in the Menu Prestige tasting menu or the Chef’s Table for the ultimate foodie experience.

NOT FOR? If you like ‘less is more’ when it comes to your food and prefer a more stripped-down approach, you might balk at the rich flavours and want a more innovative presentation of dishes.  

THE DAMAGE

Hors D’Oeuvres are around the £16 mark, Entrées are £26 and Puddings vary from £10.50 to £12.50.  

Open in Google Maps

M
Be the first to comment
Share this story: